As the ferries, cruisers and container ships seemingly miss each other by a hair’s breadth at the start of the Bosporus, a smaller ferry weaves its way through this finely calibrated chaos on its way from Üsküdar to Eyüp.
As the ferries, cruisers and container ships seemingly miss each other by a hair’s breadth at the start of the Bosporus, a smaller ferry weaves its way through this finely calibrated chaos on its way from Üsküdar to Eyüp.
The almost hourly service leaves either end of the line during day, meandering its way up and down the slower, calmer waters of the Haliç. So while the crowds queue at Eminönü for the journey up the Bosporus to the Anadolu Kavağı, take a day and enjoy a different view of Istanbul.
Skip breakfast, board the ferry at Üsküdar at 8:30 a.m. and hold your breath as the boat skims along the water so close to the big ships you could scratch their white paint with your nails. Get off at Karaköy 15 minutes later and walk toward the cruise-liner docks; take a detour through the small park on the left and walk across to the corner where Namlı Delicatessen and Karaköy Güllüoğlu sit side by side, their immaculate displays designed specifically to entice passers-by. Make your choice from rolls and sandwiches filled with your selection, a typical Turkish breakfast or, for the truly hearty, start the day with some baklava and a strong coffee. There is time to sit and relax and watch the day unfold and the business community come to life.
When you have awoken and the city around you has steadied her feet, walk back along the water’s edge towards the Galata Bridge. Take the underpass and walk across the west side of the bridge toward the main bus station. Keep walking past the buses gunning their engines and cross at the set of traffic lights at the front of the Istanbul Chamber of Commerce University. Cross back toward Eminönü and walk up the narrow side-street where vendors have packed their shops with all sorts of wooden and wickerwork. Continue up the street, passing hardware shops, shops for bathroom and toilet supplies and a shop selling everything a pastry chef could dream of, tucked in next to the odd pide, pastry and kebab corner. Well, before you smell the aroma of toasting coffee beans from Mehmet Efendi near the Spice Bazaar, walk up the darkened stairway of the Rüstem Pasha Mosque that you will find halfway down the street on the left. Even if you have been here before, you can never get enough of the amazing tile work of the bluest mosque in town.
The ferry will depart from Eminönü at 10:50 a.m. from a small stop tucked a little further along the Haliç from the bus station. Criss-crossing back across the water, the next stop is Kaşımpaşa. This is the stop to get off at if you were thinking of buying anything major or semi-professional in the way of cooking and kitchens. From individual custom-made stoves and ovens, to mixing bowls with whisks the size of footballs, all manner of culinary tools can be found along the streets that run off the Haliç. Individual household shoppers can also find items at reasonable prices. So, after purchasing the latest Kitchen Aid mixer in the hippest orange color, it is time to return to the ferry stop and catch the 12:00 p.m. to Fener.
Without leaving time to think about where to sit, the ferry will dock in the old Greek quarter of Istanbul. Heading straight along the drive, passing the sea police headquarters and then crossing the road at the lights will take you to a few shops sitting side-by-side and selling all things iconic. Just around the corner to the left is the Patriarchate, the first church in the worldwide family of Orthodox churches (and headquarters of Patriarch Bartholomew) alongside the three-aisled basilica of the Cathedral of St. George. After a quick visit to take in the serenity of the courtyard and details of the interior of the church, walk back along the street into Fener proper. Notice the number of buildings boarded up, restorations under way. See the work of the renovation project in the unveiled buildings dotted in amongst the decay and debris. Continue walking along Yıldırım Caddesi or cross to its parallel Vodina Caddesi until you reach the start of the Balat shopping street where you can get back onto the main road. To the right is the cast-iron Bulgarian Church. Completely pre-made in Vienna, it was transported to Istanbul and assembled on the shores of the Haliç.
The corner where the side road meets with the main road houses one of the best köfte-eating spots in Istanbul. Formerly a well-known place for liver, Arnavut Köftesi churns out plate after plate of perfectly cooked meat patties next to roughly cut chunks of regular white bread and a small salad garnish. Order soup, piyaz (white beans) or more salad if you need to and wash it all down with bottles of chilled water. There is no mucking around and people do not linger, so it is perfect for a quick lunch on the way to the Balat ferry stop. To get here, walk through the park and behind the fenced playing fields to jump on the 13:09 to Hasköy.
Of course, if you were sidetracked by the other churches, synagogues, mosques or just the street life of Fener and Balat, catch the next boat the following hour. Hasköy will not go anywhere and the Rahmi M Koç Museum, dedicated to the history of transport, industry and communications, is open everyday except Mondays. The museum also hosts special events and was the site for the Da Vinci exhibition in 2006. If you decide to save your visit to the museum for another day, stay on board the ferry and cut back across to Ayvansaray.
Ayvansaray hosts two interesting sites. The first is the Blachernae Sacred Fountain and Ayazma (Spring) Church (found off Ayvansaray Kapısı Sokak). The spring is believed to have healing powers and pilgrims have visited the site since pre-Christian times. Then there are the remains of the Palace of Blachernae. The residence of the last Byzantine Emperors was on the site of the İvaz Efendi Mosque and was built by Emperor Anastasius in A.D. 500. Despite the multi-laned freeway that passes meters above, there is a tranquil feel to the impressive semi-restored walls and green spaces.
Back on the ferry at 17 minutes past the hour to Sütlüce, the disembarkation point for Miniatürk, a parkland several hundred meters further along the Haliç. Opened in 2003, the theme park is filled with miniature versions of all the important Ottoman and Turkish architectural works. Most people allow about two hours to visit the site and whereas it does not compare to seeing the works in person, it offers a fantastic opportunity to understand the breadth of sites that are worth including in your next trip around Turkey.
The last stop on the ferry is Eyüp and whilst you could spend another day wandering in and around all there is to see in Eyüp Sultan, my suggestion at this stage of the afternoon is to take the teleferik (funicular) up to the top of the hill. Seek out Pierre Loti’s café, order a tea and toast and look back over your day’s journey.
Hopping on and off the ferry can cost YTL 1.30 per journey, or less is you use an akbil. Entrance to all churches, mosques and synagogues are free although you may have to book in advance for some. Entrance fees apply to the Rahmi M Koç Museum and Miniatürk. For ferry times visit www.ido.com.tr.
15 August 2007, Wednesday SHARON CROXFORD İSTANBUL